Multiple pinking mechanism



Patented Sept. 12, 1939 UNITED STATE-s PATENT OFFICE Man- Sew Pinking Attachment Corp., New

York, N. Y., a. corporation of New York Application October 29, 1937, Serial No. 171,618

3 Claims.

The present invention relates to multiple pinking mechanism, and generically considered has for its primary object and purpose to provide a simple, inexpensive and accurately and efficiently operating mechanism, designed and constructed for use in connection with power operated, high speed sewing machines of the type generally employed in the garment industry, for simultaneously pinking opposite edges of materials in the process of manufacture of the garment.

Another object of the invention is to provide mechanism for the above purpose employing pinking rings of the character disclosed in Patent No. 1,973,888 issued to me September 18, 1934, which are mounted to rotate about vertical axes at opposite sides of the material feeding mechanism, together with means for imparting intermittent rotary motion to said pinking rings with relation to pressure rollers disposed in superposed relation to the respective rings. Thus as these rollers press the edges of the materials upon the teeth of the pinking rings, said edges are pinked or trimmed in the rotation of said rings in the direction of feeding movement of the materials through the machine.

It is a further object of the invention to provide multiple pinking mechanism which may be advantageously employed in the manufacture of dresses, underwear and other garments for accurately pinking or trimming the edges of Varlous different kinds of seams consisting of either one or more layers of material, and without necessitating any reduction in the usual high speed operation of such machines.

With the above and other objects in View, the invention consists of the improved multiple pinking mechanism and in the form, construction and relative arrangement of its several parts, as will be hereinafter more fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawings and subsequently incorporated in the subjoined claims.

In the drawings wherein I have illustrated one simple and practical embodiment of my invention and in which similar characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Fig. 1 is a top plan View showing a portion of the bed or cloth plate of a sewing machine and illustrating one embodiment of my invention applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig, ,3 s a fragmentary plan View showing a slightly different operating means for the pinking rings and a multiple needle throat plate;

Fig. 4 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 4 4 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary plan view showing a single needle throat plate;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary perspective View of the materials stitched together as indicated in Fig. 2 and having their oppositely projecting edges trimmed or pinked; and,

Fig. 7 is a similar perspective view showing the folded superimposed edges of two pieces of material connected by a single line of stitching and the pinked edges projecting in opposite directions from the connected folds.

In the accompanying drawings in which I have selected for illustration a sewing machine of the well-known high speed industrial or factory type, Il! indicates the bed or cloth plate of the machine, II the usual four motion feed dogs, I2 the presser foot, and I3 spaced vertically reciprocating needles.

The improved multiple pinking mechanism is carried by a base plate I4 detachably mounted in any suitable manner in a recess provided in the cloth plate II) so that the top surfaces of the two plates will be substantially flush. This base plate in turn is provided with a suitably shaped recess to receive the throat plate I5 removably secured in said recess by the screws I6. This throat plate is provided with the usual openings Il to accommodate the feed dogs II and the spaced openings I8 for the respective needles I3.

The base plate I4 is provided in its upper surface at each side of the throat plate I5 with an annular recess I9 surrounding a central boss 20. The outerportion of each recess I9 receives one of my endless pinking rings ZI which is provided on its upper face and at its outer edge portion with the upwardly projecting pinking teeth 22. As shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings the pinking ring is provided at its inner edge with an upwardly projecting annular rib or ange 23.

Between each pinking ring and the associated boss a disk 24 is mounted upon said boss and supported in the recess 0f the base plate for oscillatory rotary motion. This disk is provided at its outer edge portion and in its upper surface with spaced radial recesses 25. Upon a stud 26 projecting upwardly from the base of each recess the inner end of a dog 2'I is pivoted. The outer end of said dog is formed with a U-shaped hooked portion 28 receiving the flange or rib 23 of the pinking ring. Coil springs 29 carried by the disk 24 yieldingly urge these dogs in one direction in the recesses 25 so that the hooked ends 28 thereof will grip the rib 23 of the pinking ring and effect rotary movement of said ring when the disk 24 is rotated in one direction around the boss 29. This disk and the dogs 21 are retained in cooperative relation with the pinking ring by means of a cover plate 30 extending over the same and fixed to the boss 20 by the screws 3l.

In Fig. 3 of the drawings I have illustrated another means for imparting rotary motion to the pinking rings, in which each pinking ring is provided on its inner edge with one or more spring pressed pivoted pawls 32 which engage the ratchet teeth 33 formed on the outer periphery of the disk 24'.

Preferably, the disks 24 are actuated to rotate the pinln'ng means by power transmitted from the actuating means for the feed dogs II, so that the operation of the feed dogs and the pinking rings may be properly synchronized and said rings given an operative rotative movement with each feeding stroke of the feed dogs to move the work rearwardly over the throat plate, beneath the presser foot I2. One example of such an actuating means for the disks 24 is illustrated in the accompanying drawings Yand consists of a sleeve 34 mounted between the upper ends of arms 35 xed to the rock shaft 36 from which power is transmitted through suitable connections for the operation of the feed dogs II. Each end of the sleeve 34 is provided Vwith an arm 31 extending horizontally beneath the base plate I4 and having an upwardly projecting lug 38 at its free end loosely engaged in an opening 39 in the disk 24 adjacent to its outer periphery. The-dogs I! are carried by the central arm projecting from sleeve 34, shown in Fig. l of the drawings'and the usual lift mechanism of the four-motion feed device is connected to this arm. It will therefore be understood that the lugs 38 at the ends of arms 31 lwill have a slight vertical movement in the openings 39 of the respective clutch disks 24. Thus it will be understood that in each feeding movement of the dogs Ii the arms 31 are actuated to oscillate the disks 24 and impart a rotative movement to the pinking rings in the direction of movement of the work. In the reverse movement of the arms 31, the gripping engagement of the dogs 21 with the ring anges 23 is released, and the rings remain stationary as the disks 24 are returned to their former position. In the arrangement shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings, in such reverse rotation of the disks 24 the pivoted pawls 32 are pressed outwardly and ride freely over the ratchet teeth 33. Thus intermittent rotary movements are imparted to each pinking ring of exactly the same length and in accurately synchronized relation with movement of the feed dogs `I I.

The specific means for mounting the pinking rings and imparting intermittent rotary movement thereto is substantially disclosed in my prior applications for Letters Patent Ser. No. 45,787 led October 19, 1935, and Ser. No. 114,931, led December 9, 1936. Therefore these features are not herein specically claimed. However, I desire it to be understood that insofar as the multiple pinking mechanism is concerned the pinking rings may be operated by any suitable actuating mechanism deriving its power from any convenient source, and said actuating mechanism need not necessarily derive its power from the feed dog operating means.

Upon reference to Figs. 1 `and 3 of the drawings,

it Will be noted that a vertical plane intersecting the axes of the two horizontally rotatable pinking rings passes transversely through the throat plate I5 immediately at the rear of the needles I3. At this closest point of approach of the pinking rings to each other, the work is cut or pinked at its opposite edges by the respective pinking rings. To insure a sharp accurate pinking cut, the Work is pressed downwardly on the teeth of the pinking ring by the rotatable pressure rollers 40. These vpressure rollers are suitably mounted directly above the cutting teeth of the respective pinking 4rings and -immediately at the rear of the needles so that the work is pinked after it has been stitched and in spaced relation to the line or lines of stitching, as vindicated by the broken lines 4 I.

Suitable pressure regulating means may be provided vfor the Arollers 4B so that they will automatically accommodate themselves to different thicknesses of materials or to a plurality of layers of the materials to be `simultaneously pinked. One such pressure regulating means for said rollers is disclosed in my pending application for kpatent Ser. No. 124,987 filed February 10, 1937, which may be readily adapted ufor use in connection with my present invention.

In Fig. 5 of the drawings I have illustrated another form of throat plate designed for use with a single needle machine. In this case, the throat plate I5 is provided with a single centrally located needle opening I8' and the feed dog receiving slots I'I at opposite sides thereof.

Fig. 6 illustrates one kind of work which may be executed with my multiple pinking mechanism as shown in Figs. l to 3 of the drawings. In this instance, two pieces of fabric 42 are each folded ata point in spaced relation to one edge thereof as indicated at 43. It will be understood that in the operation of the machine, these folds are automatically formed in the fabric vpieces by a suitable folding device, indicated at 44, as said fabric pieces are fed to the needles beneath the presser-foot I2. Simultaneously, a connecting fabric strip 45 is fedv over the ybase I4 between the throat plate I5 and the folded edges 43 of the fabric pieces v42. The opposite longitudinal edge portions of the strip 45 and the superimposed edge portions ofthe fabric pieces 42, projecting laterally in opposite directions from the folds 43, eX- tend over the cutting teeth 22 of the respective pinking rings. Thus after the folded edges 43 have been secured to the connecting strip 45 by the spaced lines of stitching 4I, the oppositely projecting edge portions of the fabric pieces are pinked by the cutting teeth 22 in the rotation of the rings 2| in each feeding movement of the dogs I I, as indicated at 46.

In Fig. 7 an example of Work executed by a single needle sewing machine is illustrated. In this case the folded edge portions 43 of the two pieces of fabric 42 are fed beneath the presserfoot of the machine in overlapping contact, and said folded edges secured together by the single line of stitching indicated at 4I. The free edge portions of the fabric pieces extending laterally in opposite directions from the line of stitching are trimmed or pinked as at 43 in the manner above described. The pressure rollers 40 insure a clean sharp pinking cut of either multiple fabric layers as in Fig. 6, or of a single layer of fabric as in Fig. 7, and will also operate with the same einciency in pinking fabrics of a very delicate character as well as heavier materials. By arranging the pinking rings or cutters with respect to the needle or needles of the sewing mechanism, as

above described, and imparting intermittent rotation to these rings in relatively opposite directions and in the direction of feed of the material, it will be seen, from reference to Fig. 1 of the drawings, that the teeth of the oppositely rotating rings will frictionally engage the edges of the material, aiding in the feed thereof and preventing lateral shift of the material after leaving the needles, and before the rollers it have full effective pressure engagement therewith. In this manner, accurate lalignment of the inner and outer points of the pinking cuts or serrations is assured.

From the foregoing description considered in connection with the accompanying drawings, the construction, manner ofvoperation, and several advantages of my improved multiple pinking mechanism will be clearly understood. apparent that by means of my invention, the quantity production of garments having pinked or trimmed seam edges or other parts may be greatly expedited, with the assurance of work of high quality and a minimum of waste. I have herein described a preferred practical embodiment of the invention which has given very satisfactory and reliable results in practice. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that my present improvements are susceptible of more or less modication, as to the form, construction, and relative arrangement of the various elements and I therefore reserve the privilege of resorting to all such legitimate changes as may fairly be comprehended within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

Iclaim:

l. In combination with the base plate and work feeding and stitching mechanism of a sewing machine, means for pinking the work at opposite sides of the stitching mechanism, comprising a pinking member mounted on the base plate at each side of the stitching mechanism to rotate in a horizontal plane, said members having upwardly facing cutting teeth, means for pressing spaced parts of the work upon said teeth rearwardly of It will be the stitching mechanism, reversely acting clutch devices associated with the respective pinking members to intermiti ently rotate the same in the direction of feeding movementv of the work, and means connected with the work feeding mechanism for simultaneously and equally actuating said clutch devices.

2. In combination with the base plate and work feeding and stitching mechanism of a sewing machine, means for pinking the work at opposite sides of the stitching mechanism, comprising a pinking ring mounted on the base plate at each side of the stitching mechanism to rotate in a horizontal plane, said rings having upwardly facing cutting teeth, means for pressing spaced parts of the work upon said teeth rearwar'dly of the stitching mechanism, reversely acting clutch devices mounted within the respectivepinking rings and coasting therewith to intermittently rotate said rings in the direction of feeding movement of the work, and actuating means for said clutch devices operating beneath the base plate and connected with a movable part of the work feeding mechanism.

3. In combination with the base plate and work feeding and stitching mechanism of a sewing machine, means for pinking the Work at opposite sides of the stitching mechanism, comprising a pinking ring mounted on the base plate at each side of the stitching mechanism to rotate in a horizontal plane, said rings having upwardly facing cutting teeth, means for pressing spaced parts of the work upon said teeth rearwardly of the stitching mechanism, reversely acting clutch devices mounted within the respective pinking rings and coacting therewith to intermittently rotate said rings in the direction of feeding movement of the work, each of said clutch devices including an oscillatory disk, and means eccentrically connecting said clutch disks with a movable part of the work feeding mechanism to simultaneously and equally actuate said clutch devices.

VICTOR J. SIGODA. 

